The whole baffle board
is warped above and can never be used. This was the beginning of an era when
Fender would innovate these amps to the point they were total pieces of crap
in the 1970s era.
All of my new parts are
beginning to arrive. I'll be restoring this amp to better than original
condition because I'm installing a replica black faceplate and all of the
true blackface components that Fender should have just left alone in this
1967 model amp. Mojo Musical Supply and a number of other companies
specialize in making exact replica parts for old amp restorations. This was
not the case years ago. I was even able to get speakers that are identical
to the originals.
I'm having my 20 year
old son do all the work while I bark orders. He loves guitars and amps so
this is his boot camp. He's bolting in a new replica transformer that
supplies AC power to the rectifier and all circuits.
The transformer is
installed but we also installed a new 3 prong modern AC power cable and
soldered it's (green) ground wire to the chassis lug. With my help I think
he did a great job.
Also installed a new
fuse holder and main AC power switch for added safety. I don't want to worry
when this amp is left plugged in at a club or my home.
Installed the new black
replica faceplate and then buffed it with 0000 steel wool then banged it up
a little to look exactly like an old one would from decades of use. I even
used the old screws. I also installed true replica knobs and aged them by
buffing off the shine. I'll go back later and age the face plate color with
a tint too. The amp is already looking more like an authentic blackface.
Making some progress
with the amp looking better and the cabinet completely cleaned inside and
out with a scrub brush and auto tire cleaner.
I'm going to save this
hardware and use most of it because I'm not wanting a brand new looking amp.
I want it to be a very solid player that looks like it has some soul. I'll
scrub the rust off with steel wool and a solution of WD-40 which neutralizes
the corrosion and makes the parts usable again.
Above I soldered up the
replica braided wires for the reverb tank and fitting it into place to see
how it looks. It feels so good to be getting this amp back together again!
I soldered up the cloth
braided replica speaker wiring harness. It even has the little plastic
Fender cap for the plug. The terminal board shown to the left is an exact
replica and I'm very pleased with the quality of the mojo parts.
My son Josh finished
installing the Jensen P-10R replica speakers and has the cabinet completely
wired and ready. The nice new baffle board is very flat and true so the
speakers will have a great foundation. It's also wood to wood contact from
the baffle board to the chassis.
I began the process of
replacing the worst capacitors but to be honest I'm not happy with these
huge black T.A.D. (Tube Amp Doctor) brand capacitors. I think I may order
the smaller sized equivalents. You have to group several pairs of these
together as seen on the right and these are just too big. In the mean time
I'll suck all the solder out of the 150-200 solder connections in the amp
and rework them with less solder and much better long term reliability and
I also installed new
ceramic super high quality tube sockets that will greatly increase the
reliability and connections for the tubes. They fit very tightly into the
new sockets. I also installed new resistors to the exact factory specs. The
green pair of wires is the pilot voltage that keeps all the tubes warm and
lit up. That's the light you see when you look at the tubes.
Above is a part of the
amp most people miss. It's the main filter capacitor board underneath and
hidden by a metal cover. These work like huge electric storage tanks that
smooth out the voltage going to all the tubes in the amp. These are voltages
that can kill you at over 400 volts. If you don't replace these caps and one
happens to short out it will burn up your transformers and cost more money
to repair than you can justify for most amps. Although these test out okay
with my multimeter I don't trust them. These will get replaced before the
amp is ever powered on again.
This is the new set of
Sprague Atoms we installed. I did a really tight and neat job and every
solder joint was cleaned and reworked from scratch. I then ohmed out all the
connections and made sure I did not measure any shorts to the high voltage
wires going up into the amp. Notice all 4 of the caps to the left are
polarized with the positive going one way then the last cap to the right is
turned the other way. These are the kinds of details that you can miss and
blow the whole amp up and start all over again. I replaced the three 20uf
500v caps with I believe 22u/500 and then the two big 70uf 350v caps were
replaced with 80uf/500 caps. This was as close as I could get and the
experts at the Fender amp forum helped approve this choice for me. I got
those from TubesAndMore.com
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