Setup of a National EN Continued
Adjust string action and spacing with new biscuit
Now we move on to the phase where we finish lowering the saddle and string slots until the action is perfect. We have to be careful otherwise we'll have to install another bridge and start over. These only cost 12-13 dollars so I usually buy 2-3 just in case I mess up.The old saddle below is about 11/64" high and the new one has to be higher than this.
As a little safety precaution I marked the new saddle to show where the old one came up to. I know if I am getting close to this line I am in trouble. As they say "Measure twice and cut once".
Always eyeball the string spacing before you start deepening these slots. I noticed string two needs to be moved over just a hair with the file. No problem since the groove is not deep and this part of the saddle will be filed away later.
Very careful not to press down on the cone I file the 6th slot and keep checking the action at the 12th fret. I just want to get pretty close around 4/32" gap and then stop. I can fine tune it later after it's up to full tuning by leaving the bridge strap cover off.
Just getting in the ballpark right now and stop filing. I'll keep bringing the saddle slot down until it's about 4/32" which is higher action than I need. My ultimate goal is going to be just over 3/32".
Now I'll get the first string slot down lower and in the ball park of about 4/32" height at fret 12. Eventually I'll also taper the back of the slot downward and refine these better. Right now I just want the slots to be straight and level. I'm also ultra careful not to be pressing down. Let the file do the work so you don't crush the cone down. It's very light and delicate.
Now I have all the slots done and the action and radius of the strings matches the curve of the fretboard and looks like my slide will lay down on the strings very evenly.
Now I use a pretty rough wood rasp because I need to remove this extra wood and the file needs to do the work without pressing down. I'll have to bring it down gently. This would be a great time for my Dremel tool to be working but it gave out a while back.
That's good enough and I can lower them the other 64th of an inch after I play it a day and get it settled in and have the time and patience to ultra fine tune those slots. I do however put a very slight ramp on the rear of the slots at the angle the string goes to the tail piece. Otherwise the tone gets restricted just a little bit and I can usually hear when that is happening on a string. I learned this really is an important step.
Now, I will play it like this for a day or so and refine those string heights to perfection then reinstall the little cover plate (bridge strap) back over the saddle and be done with it. I can already tell the slide playing is much better than before and it plays like butter now with the neck relief proper. Even with the action a hair higher now it actually plays easier than it did before.
WARNING: You better tighten all the strings up slowly and evenly from the center outward or there's a remote change you can press hard on one side of the saddle and collapse the cone underneath. This happened to me once and I still can't believe I tightened the strings on one side too tight while the other side was loose. That was a 70.00 dollar lesson I learned.
Tip: Instead of using black paint grab a sharpie marker and touch the saddle up for that factory look again.
CONTINUE TO THE TUNER REPLACEMENT PHASE